Ba-ba-ba-Barbera
Ba-ba-ba- Barbera and. . .
Risotto. For my money, certainly. A mushroom risotto and a Barbera. Boursin and parmesan cheese. Some asparagus, sure; even some shrimp. But the ‘shrooms are not optional. They are the REASON for the Barbera, a tasty medium-to-full-bodied wine that is also relatively low in tannins. Why don’t I get offered Barberas more often?
As I just told Kimmy Sue Horserider, Cabs and Pinot Noirs are frequently overpriced. I don’t like most Pinots anyway; yet I’ve liked almost every Barbera I’ve ever had – and the one exception wasn’t bad, just a tad disappointing. In retrospect, I’m guessing it had some contact with the new-fangled stainless steel style o’ winemaking. Not that it matters, as I can’t recall the name. Ruvei? Whatever. . .
In any event, Barbera too often is overlooked on these shores. In Italy, it’s both a go-to wine varietal and a popular ingredient in blends. It’s consistent, and I like its character: It’s high in acidity, soft and fruity, and it’s possible to procure a swell example at a decent price. What’s not to like?
Here’s a dandy one: the 2005 Eredi Lodali Barbera d’Alba Vigneto Bric Sant'Ambrogi. It being an Italian wine, I do not know what all those words signify. I do not even know if I’m identifying the wine in the correct word order, which in this case would be reading from the bottom of the label to the top. You sure can’t judge a wine by its label – particularly if it’s an Italian wine. This is especially true of THIS Italian wine, whose label is a basic off-white with black lettering. The thin gold line surrounding this plain-Jane label is the only sign that the winemaker didn’t simply go to the nearest printer and say, “I need a label for my delicious Barbera. Whatever’s cheapest. Does it cost extra to include this blurry black-and-white sketch that just MIGHT be an old farmhouse atop terraced vineyards?”
If it helps, the wine was imported by Siema LLC, Springfield, Virginia, and I picked it up at Gomer’s South for a mere $13.
Barbera, like the prized Nebbiolo grape, is a mainstay of the Piemonte region of northern Italy. More precisely, the Monferrato zone, overlapping the province of Asti, is Barbera’s “spiritual home,” as my Italian wine primer so nicely puts it. The biggest names in Barbera producers are d’Alba and d’Asti.
Many of the top producers of Barolo/Barbaresco also make quality Barberas. I note this because Barolo is often dubbed “the king of wines,” as Barbaresco is called “the queen of wines.” Yet no one seems to say a word about Barbera! Not in earshot of ME, anyway. I, who so appreciate value in wine. Bought a Barolo lately? For the same money, you can get three or four Barberas.
It’s said that Barbera’s taste is akin to that of a Cabernet Sauvignon, but after a quick consultation with my tastebuds, I don’t think that’s accurate. I’m not skilled at listing specific flavor components of wine, but I’ll give it a go, just so you know what you’re missing: A good Barbera will offer fruitiness and nice acidity, cherries and berries. Barbera is fruit-driven, and Barbera barricato – Barbera matured in oak barrels – offers wood smoke and vanilla in a lovely complement to the grape’s structure. If that makes any sense. I’m TRYIN’ here, really I am.
It just flat-out tastes good. Looks good, smells good, and makes my killer risotto even better. I lift my glass and salute you, Prince Barbera. Or is that Princess?
Risotto. For my money, certainly. A mushroom risotto and a Barbera. Boursin and parmesan cheese. Some asparagus, sure; even some shrimp. But the ‘shrooms are not optional. They are the REASON for the Barbera, a tasty medium-to-full-bodied wine that is also relatively low in tannins. Why don’t I get offered Barberas more often?
As I just told Kimmy Sue Horserider, Cabs and Pinot Noirs are frequently overpriced. I don’t like most Pinots anyway; yet I’ve liked almost every Barbera I’ve ever had – and the one exception wasn’t bad, just a tad disappointing. In retrospect, I’m guessing it had some contact with the new-fangled stainless steel style o’ winemaking. Not that it matters, as I can’t recall the name. Ruvei? Whatever. . .
In any event, Barbera too often is overlooked on these shores. In Italy, it’s both a go-to wine varietal and a popular ingredient in blends. It’s consistent, and I like its character: It’s high in acidity, soft and fruity, and it’s possible to procure a swell example at a decent price. What’s not to like?
Here’s a dandy one: the 2005 Eredi Lodali Barbera d’Alba Vigneto Bric Sant'Ambrogi. It being an Italian wine, I do not know what all those words signify. I do not even know if I’m identifying the wine in the correct word order, which in this case would be reading from the bottom of the label to the top. You sure can’t judge a wine by its label – particularly if it’s an Italian wine. This is especially true of THIS Italian wine, whose label is a basic off-white with black lettering. The thin gold line surrounding this plain-Jane label is the only sign that the winemaker didn’t simply go to the nearest printer and say, “I need a label for my delicious Barbera. Whatever’s cheapest. Does it cost extra to include this blurry black-and-white sketch that just MIGHT be an old farmhouse atop terraced vineyards?”
If it helps, the wine was imported by Siema LLC, Springfield, Virginia, and I picked it up at Gomer’s South for a mere $13.
Barbera, like the prized Nebbiolo grape, is a mainstay of the Piemonte region of northern Italy. More precisely, the Monferrato zone, overlapping the province of Asti, is Barbera’s “spiritual home,” as my Italian wine primer so nicely puts it. The biggest names in Barbera producers are d’Alba and d’Asti.
Many of the top producers of Barolo/Barbaresco also make quality Barberas. I note this because Barolo is often dubbed “the king of wines,” as Barbaresco is called “the queen of wines.” Yet no one seems to say a word about Barbera! Not in earshot of ME, anyway. I, who so appreciate value in wine. Bought a Barolo lately? For the same money, you can get three or four Barberas.
It’s said that Barbera’s taste is akin to that of a Cabernet Sauvignon, but after a quick consultation with my tastebuds, I don’t think that’s accurate. I’m not skilled at listing specific flavor components of wine, but I’ll give it a go, just so you know what you’re missing: A good Barbera will offer fruitiness and nice acidity, cherries and berries. Barbera is fruit-driven, and Barbera barricato – Barbera matured in oak barrels – offers wood smoke and vanilla in a lovely complement to the grape’s structure. If that makes any sense. I’m TRYIN’ here, really I am.
It just flat-out tastes good. Looks good, smells good, and makes my killer risotto even better. I lift my glass and salute you, Prince Barbera. Or is that Princess?
posted by Winetaster | 8:41 AM
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